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faq

What is the basic difference between an Isolator, Switch, Switch Fuse Unit or Fuse Switch Unit and a Circuit Breaker?

All the four are mechanical devices. The Isolator and Switch Fuse unit of Fuse Switch Unit are manually operated devices where as a Circuit Breaker can be either manually or electrically operated. An Isolator can merely establish the circuit, that too under no load. It can not establish or break any load current, whereas a switch can make or break an electrical circuit under rated load current. A Switch Fuse Unit or a Fuse Switch Unit also functions like the Switch, but can interrupt the power supply by blowing the fuse in case the connected load draws excess current or when a short circuit occurs. A Circuit Breaker also interrupts the power supply when excess current flows through the circuit or when a short circuit takes place and it is designed to trip with internal or external sensitive devices. Since a Circuit Breaker is designed to make as well as break a large amount of power, it is widely used to protect an entire electrical installation, against a massive short circuit current or current drawn in excess of its rated capacity.

Why transformer ratings are in kva?

Since the power factor of transformer is dependent on load we only define VA rating and does not include power factor. In case of motors, power factor depend on construction and hence rating of motors is in KWatts and include power factor.

What capacity AC shall I use for my room?”

“What capacity AC shall I use for my room?” is a common question from the interested buyers. The required capacity of AC will depend on the amount of heat to be removed from the room. More the heat coming into the room, higher is the capacity of AC required to cool the room. The heat load varies depending on • Location (city): A 150 sq.ft room in coastal cities like Chennai, Mumbai and Kolkota will need lesser cooling capacity AC than at cities like Hyderabad, Nagpur, New Delhi etc. • Solar radiation heat through exposed roof, glass windows etc. • The temperature we want to maintain in the room, during peak summer (24°C + 1°C is recommended) • The no. of people, no. of lightings, electrical gadgets (computers etc.) in the room • Orientation of building (one generally may not have much of a choice here, unless he/she is building their house) The salesmen at the showrooms have been equipped with a ‘Heat Load Calculation template’ by the AC manufacturers to suitably guide the customers. Over a period of time, from the experience of repeatedly doing these calculations, some thumb-rules also have emerged like 1TR (3.5KW) capacity AC can handle approximately 100 – 150 sq.ft room etc. If the AC is optimally chosen, without over-sizing, it will help consumers in spending less on the initial purchase price and also the running cost and maintenance charges for the 8 – 10 years of the life of AC. Some useful tips are furnished below, to help the consumers to reduce the capacity of AC required: Minimise solar radiation heat into the room • If the roof is exposed to direct sun rays, insulate the roof with minimum 2” underdeck thermocole insulation. This is a ‘must do’ and a good investment to reduce the running cost. • If any windows are exposed to direct sun rays, use a drape or venetian blind to keep away the radiation heat from entering the room. Do not specify lower room temperature Air conditioning is not chilling! The AC is supposed to provide comfort room conditions like temperature (24°C + 1°C), relative humidity (<65%RH), clean filtered air, free of dust (done by the air filter in the AC) and air movement in the room. If you specify lower room temperature, say 20°C in summer, the salesman can still satisfy you by offering a next higher capacity AC! But your initial investment, running cost expenses month-after-month and annual maintenance contract amount will increase! Partition / isolate the AC room The room fitted with AC should be fully covered on all sides, with a firmly closing type door. If you are air conditioning your living room, which is open to the kitchen on one side, then you need to provide a partition

How to have a good earthing for my House

An Earth pipe either copper or GI pipe of length atleast 3' may be buried in earth, connecting the wire from the earth pipe to your electrical Main Board. Usually all the earth wires in the distribution system inside your house shall be terminated to an earth link. Earth wire from the pipe should be connected firmly to this earth link. Its better to maintain moisture around the earth pipe. Regular watering around the Earth pipe shall give you better results

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